12 SUPERIOR YIELD GEORGIA GIANT BOBWHITE Quail Egg fertile hatching conservation

Description

FRESHNESS IS GUARANTEED.
NO FERTILE EGG IS SHIPPED THE NEXT DAY.
SHIPPING: Buying multiple sets of this item, charges a single shipping fee from our Georgia farm. The shipping fees cover trays, Lane, packaging, an egg candler, and much more than just the postage fees.
CRACKED EGGS CAN HAPPEN.
ONCE THEY LEAVE OR HANDS, WE CAN'T MANAGE HOW THE CARRIERS HANDLE YOUR PACKAGES.
OVER 10% CRACKED, TAKE PICS AND CONTACT ME IMMEDIATELY. LET'S MAKE THIS RIGHT.
PROFITS HELP SUPPORT STUDENTS IN THE PHILIPPINES, college tuition, rent, allowances, supplies and fees AND FAMILIES IN CRISIS across the Philippines through GAP-Life Ministries.
SECRET TO GREAT HATCHING OF SHIPPED EGGS: ************************************ Once your eggs arrives, unpackage them and allow them to sit for a full 24 hours before adding them to the heated incubator. This allows the air bubbles to rise up out of the yolk into the void area inside the shell. Doing this allows the chick to hatch stronger, making it possible to escape the shell. It also minimizes birth defects and maximizes hatched chick life sustainability in the first 10 days after hatching. * GENERAL INFO: Please keep in mind that I CANNOT guarantee your hatch rate due to package handling by the USPS, your incubating technique, etc. If some of your eggs fail to develop, please understand that this doesn't necessarily mean that they are not fertile, simply that the embryo may have been damaged during shipping. Most of our customers report a high % hatch rate with shipped eggs. When testing for hatch rates, I take my eggs from the quail pens to the incubator and can achieve a higher hatch rate for this reason. What I do guarantee is that you will get extremely fresh eggs at an extremely affordable price.No eggs are held over and mailed out the following day. This means that the postmark date is the date the eggs was always laid on. NPIP certified Sent usps priority mail, most locations FedEx on orders over 100 eggs Orders are shipped in exact amounts. Breakage is a risk of shipping, cannot guarantee, this can be taken up with the delivery company through a claim to their shipping policy. Bobwhite quail hatch anywhere from 19 to 27 days. The average is 23 days. Moisture level should be kept 65 to 67% and raise to 70% on this last 3 days. The temperature should be set at 99.5 degrees Fahrenheit.
* GENERAL INFO:
Please keep in mind that I CANNOT guarantee your hatch rate due to package handling by the USPS, your incubating technique, etc. If some of your eggs fail to develop, please understand that this doesn't necessarily mean that they are not fertile, simply that the embryo may have been damaged during shipping. Most of our customers report a high % hatch rate with shipped eggs. When testing for hatch rates, I take my eggs from the quail pens to the incubator and can achieve a higher hatch rate for this reason.
What I do guarantee is that you will get extremely fresh eggs at an extremely affordable price. No eggs are held over and mailed out the following day. This means that the postmark date is the date the eggs was always laid on.
NPIP certified
Sent usps priority mail, most locations
FedEx on orders over 100 eggs
Orders are shipped in exact amounts.
Breakage is a risk of shipping, cannot guarantee, this can be taken up with the delivery company through a claim to their shipping policy.
Bobwhite quail hatch anywhere from 19 to 27 days. The average is 23 days.
Moisture level should be kept 65 to 67% and raise to 70% on this last 3 days.
The temperature should be set at 99.5 degrees Fahrenheit.
* MORE ABOUT THE BREED:
The Georgia giant bobwhite quail, resembling a short fluffy chicken, is a popular poultry bird that is native to much of the northeastern United States. The bird, with its characteristic "bob-bob-white" call is readily recognizable once heard. The Georgia giant bobwhite quail is a mutation of the original bobwhite quail and, as its name indicates, is larger than its original species.
The bobwhite quail (scientific name Colinus virginianus) averages between 10 inches to 11 inches in length and has a wingspan range between 14 inches and 16 inches. The birds weigh between 14 and 16 ounces, with the females of the species being slightly smaller than the males. Georgia giant bobwhite quails are exquisitely colored in a subtle mix of golds, reds, browns and grays. The birds are prolific egg layers and some are known to lay eggs up to 300 days a year.
Lifespan
The Georgia giant bobwhite quail is a prey species and a popular hunting bird. According to Web Parton and Thomas Arnold in the book "Wingshooter's Guide to Kansas Upland Birds and Waterfowl," most wild birds typically do not live to see their second birthdays while captive bobwhite quails have an average lifespan between four and five years.
Feeding Habits
Georgia giant bobwhite quails prefer a varied diet that is rich in plant material. Popular food preferences include weeds, stems, leaves, flowers, seeds, insects and cultivated grains such as wheat, sorghum and corn. They feed typically in the mornings and evenings, spending the rest of the day in cover. Their feeding habits vary slightly with changes in the weather, with species extending their feeding activities in the winter to improve metabolism for the conservation and management of body heat.
Breeding Information
The Georgia giant bobwhite quail is specifically bred for its high egg productivity, flight ability (long tail and wing feathers) and large size. It has improved disease resistance qualities and is relatively easy to raise. The male uses its characteristic "bob-bob white" call to attract a female during mating season. Georgia giant bobwhite quails are often interbred with regular bobwhite quails
Habitat/Distribution
Georgia giant bobwhite quails are typically found in rolling agricultural land with an abundance of brushy edges and thick fencerows, pastureland and farmland. Bushy tree lines on roadsides and cropped field edges are prime habitats. These birds also prefer tall woods with thick, brushy understory, arid slopes and brushy canyons. Georgia giant bobwhite quails hold up well in harsh and excessive winter conditions.
Hatch Rates CANNOT be guaranteed.
Shipping is nonrefundable. Shipping of eggs is a RISK we all take.
If you wish to buy now and deliver later, simply message me at checkout. This is no problem.
Also, PLEASE give me a chance to make you happy before filing bad feedback. I WILL do all I can, within reason, to make it right.
Fertile eggs can be shipped at all 50 states EXCEPT Hawaii (I don't have their permits yet) and the US Territories. I CANNOT SHIP INTERNATIONALLY. SORRY!
Lastly, IF YOU ARE ON A MILITARY BASE, please be sure your order of FERTILE EGGS is able to be forwarded to you. PLEASE CHECK before ordering. I apologize, but this is a 50/50 chance: but I will ship if asked.
Thanks, Alan
Friends with Fowl published a note.
______________________________
Hatching Shipped Eggs by Elizabeth White via Cheryl Shires
This was sent to us by CHERYL SHIRES and written by ELIZABETH WHITE.  It is chock full of great advice, so we here at Friends with Fowl wanted to make it available for everyone to see widely.  Otherwise, it would remain just a post on our wall.  It's too important for that!  ~Poe
For those of us that purchase eggs online & have them shipped to us, getting a good hatch can be difficult sometimes, due to poor packaging and/or rough handling, combined with the ride in the chilly, un-pressurized cargo hold of an airplane at 30,000 ft altitude. Spending good money on eggs, & having them not hatch is frustrating. I know, 'cause I've "been there, done that". So I did some research & compiled a tip sheet for myself, which I though I'd share with you. (A lot of this was just "copy 'n' paste", because I wanted to have it all in one place for easy reference.)
The first thing, of course, is to visually inspect the eggs for damage. Handle the eggs gently; carefully check for any visible signs of damage to the shell. Then, candle the eggs, with a candler, or a strong flashlight. (An LED flashlight works great for this, unless the shells are really thick or dark colored.) You want to candle the eggs to check for fine hairline cracks that you might not see with the naked eye, & to check for internal damage. When looking for internal damage, the main thing to look for is a detached air cell. What does that mean? What is a detached air cell & what does it look like? Why is it important to check for it? [Those were my questions exactly, so I went looking for answers.]
If you candle the eggs from the big end, you can see the air cell very plainly in that end..You should see an air cell in each egg...the older the egg the, the bigger the cell, but you should still see one in each egg. I candle with a hand-held candler. I hold the egg upright, big end up, and place the candling light on top of it where the air cell is located. Keeping the candling light in place, I gently tilt the egg to one side and then the other...if the air cell is stable, you will not notice it shifting around. In an egg with an intact air cell, the air cell should stay fixed in position at the big end of the egg. If the air cell is just loose, but not completely detached, it will shift slightly out of place; if it is detached completely, it will "roll" to the uppermost surface of the egg's contents. Think of the air pocket at the top of an unopened bottle of water. When you tilt the bottle it shifts, "rolling" to the top of the water's surface, whatever position the bottle is in. In an egg with an intact air cell, the air cell should stay fixed in position at the big end of the egg. The reason it is important that the air cell remain in the proper position, in the large end of the egg is this: The head of the chick develops at the large end of the egg. Between the 15th and 16th days, the chick orients itself so that its head is near the air cell at the large end of the egg. Not long before the chick is ready to attempt to make its way out of the shell its neck acquires a double bend so that its beak is under its right wing and pointed toward the air cell. About the 19th day the chick thrusts its head forward. Its beak quickly breaks through the inner shell membrane, and the chick's lungs begin to function. If the air cell is not in the right place, the chick will die.
But, even if you find that the air cells are detached, all is not lost...you CAN still set them, in an incubator, and possibly get them to hatch. It requires a little extra attention, and gentle handling of the developing eggs, but it can be done, so don't toss the eggs if they aren't cracked. Here are some good tips, from a veteran hatcher of shipped eggs and from an avian veterinarian with lots of experience in hatching shipped eggs. (The vet used to hatch out very rare and endangered parrots and condors for Cornell University; some of the eggs were shipped from 1/2 way around the world...so lots of experience went into learning how to get the best possible hatch rates)
* SHIPPED EGGS CHEAT SHEET :
Don't be in a big hurry to get your eggs straight into the incubator. Shipped eggs need to sit and rest. Place them, big end up in an open egg carton and allow them to rest at room temp, for 12-24 hours. This lets the air cell settle into position at the top of the egg (the big end) and allows the temp to stabilize before placing them in the incubator. It also helps to avoid condensation of moisture inside the cell, which can encourage bacterial growth. The fresher the egg the better. The ones that have developed to a point can have DNA scrambled from pressure and cold of the flight. Allowing them to sit and rest, some are able to recover but may quit later on if enough cellular damage is done.
Never be impatient to get eggs into your incubator. Allow eggs to sit 12 - 24 hrs in a place where, if they are cool, they can warm up slowly. Leave them, after carefully unwrapped, upright inside cartons and close lid so they will not warm up too quickly. Eggs that warm too quickly, or cool too quickly are shocked, which causes lower hatch rate, & is one of the reasons shipped eggs do not fare well. Slow cooling and heating give better success. Cool eggs can remain in cool area, remember warm very slowly, do not ever shock shipped eggs or any egg by throwing it in the incubator. This causes condensation on the inside of the cool egg and bacteria begin to grow and kill the egg. Always warm cool eggs slowly. Try to keep already warm eggs stable, do not allow those to take sudden chill. Warm eggs that take a sudden drop in temps will kill the developing germ. Even in late development.
You should have your incubator up and running days before they arrive, in order to stabilize the temperature. [Some advise running your humidity lower than recommended to help air cells to dry down and aid in healing, but if your incubator is inside, in a climate controlled room, I'd say it's okay to run at normal settings.]With shipped eggs that have air cell damage, it's best to have them incubate in the upright position the entire time of incubation, without turning them at all for the first 7 days. This stabilizes the air cell and gives the embryo a better chance to start growing and get strong. After the first week, is is okay to start "turning" the eggs, by tipping them back and forth or side to side, always leaving the eggs in the upright position. Eggs that have the air cells damaged so bad that they'll shift all the way down the side of the egg have successfully been hatched doing it this way. To get them to hatch you first have to get the embryo growing & building up strength. That is always the biggest battle. That's what blood rings are in shipped eggs. The embryo starts and then dies because it can't attach itself properly in the egg.
Sitting still in the incubator for up to 7 days allows the embryo to get off to a good start and facilitates healing of the air cell.
Unfortunately, an automatic egg turner does not have a low or 'gentle' switch it only tilts, all the way to one side then the other; that can cause problems due to the fact that a loose air cell can heal in an odd shape that makes zipping more difficult at hatch time. So it is best to just carefully place the eggs upright into egg cartons, with the lids removed and "turn" them by hand.
Allow shipped hatching eggs to sit upright position in incubator without turning for the first 7 days; this allows air cells to stabilize and gives the germ time to organize and get a healthy start without constantly being moved disturbing delicate vessels and cell formation. Shipped eggs most likely suffered some damage, constantly disturbing this formation will give lower hatches. Be patient...do not touch the eggs in the incubator for the first 7 days, then carefully candle eggs to check for development. Gently lift them up in the upright position, & holding them upright, set the small end on your candler. After you candle all the eggs, on day 7, try not to be tempted to touch them again till around day 14 (I know, IT'S HARD, but remember your babies need every chance they can get). If you absolutely can't help yourself, limit yourself to looking at 1 or 2 eggs. You will be absolutely amazed at how well it works. That sloppy air cell will be rock solid by day 12.
After candling on day 7, start turning and turn 3 times a day. This exercises the embryo and prevents the embryo from laying in an area where waste product inside the eggs collects, helps circulation and proper development.
Remember how delicate the tiny embryo and veins are, so no fast twisting or tilting. Make sure any turning is gentle, and no flatter than 45 degrees, the more vertical (upright) the egg stays, the better! Stop turning the eggs on day 18, and put them into lockdown. It is okay to candle the eggs one last time before going into lockdown. In fact it a good to do so, to check how the air cell healed. Some breeders recommend tracing the outline of the air cell with pencil of any that are in an odd place or healed in a funny pattern, once in a while those stop zipping because the pattern is strange shape. By tracing the outline you will be less likely to cut into veins, or working parts, just in case in case you need to go in and help that one. Shipped eggs are like ICU patients, in that they require extra care & attention in order to promote and facilitate proper healing, but, often, even with the extra TLC, the air cell has healed in an odd shape and the chick will pip and stop or pip, start to zip and run into material that it can't continue through...so make every effort to stabilize those air cells. If a chick does run into trouble after pipping, you can help it hatch, but you must be careful when doing so.
Now, moving on to lockdown...Do NOT lay shipped eggs down on their sides in most cases during lockdown. It is best to sit these in slightly cut down paper cartons...do not use styro cartons as they heat and release chemicals that can be toxic. Cutting the side of the carton down just a little ensures pipping can occur without running into carton wall. After candling each egg, & marking air cell outlines, if necessary, transfer them to cut down egg cartons with the large ends up for hatching. Then, all you have left to do is watch & wait, knowing you did everything you could to give your potential feather-babies the best possible chance.
Sometimes before or during shipment conditions are right for the germ to begin to develop, this is the most delicate time for a hatching egg. And the time when most are damaged....tiny blood vessels are beginning to form, and cells are dividing and organizing, and being shocked with sudden temp changes and shaking. So don't beat yourself up if all of your shipped eggs do not hatch, more than air cell damage, the germ itself became disorganized and cannot rebuild itself. That is why the freshest shipped eggs are most desirable. You will get a larger percentage to hatch using this method, but it is so worth it to buy from a good breeder. Often it just isn't possible to drive across the country just to pick up some eggs or birds & we are left with no choice but to have eggs shipped to us. But we must remember that post office personnel are not trained in handling these products; their job is simply to move items from place to place....so try these tips & follow this method and hopefully, you will get good or even great results.
So after reading all this info, thereby being armed with a better understanding of what kind of damage shipping can do to an egg, this is what I decided to do:
I took an egg carton, removed the lid and the front flap, set it in the 'bator and carefully placed the eggs in with the pointy end down, letting them lean against the side of the cups. They sit at just the right angle, I think, to facilitate turning...just about 65 degrees; not straight up 90 degrees, but not terribly far off, either. So to turn, we merely need to gently roll the egg around the side of the cup....it worked well, as far as keeping them in the optimum position.
NOTE: These instructions are only for shipped eggs that need special attention; eggs right out of your own barn without damage can be handled differently. A hen doesn't lay her eggs big end up and there is no pressure damage to an air cell that might locate itself in odd position..those can be warmed up carefully and placed right into the incubator.
HAPPY HATCHING!!!!